Christmas in Venice

True to its authentic nature, Christmas is not a big commercial event in Venice. Christmas decorations are confined to the busiest parts of the city: the Merceria, the Rialto, San Marco. Occasionally, one can see a window or a balcony timidly decorated. Nativity scenes, or presepi, are much more dear to the Italians. After all, the first Nativity scene it's said to have been the creation of Saint Francis. It was a living one and took place in Greccio, a small town south of Assisi,  in 1223. Christmas trees, Germanic in origin, came to Italy, and the rest of the world, via England and the United States and much later than the presepe. You can find Christmas trees in Venice, even natural ones, but only rarely in public areas.

The birth is taking place in San Polo, in the Rialto, where according to tradition Venice was founded. The Rialto Bridge and the "paron de casa" couldn't be absent.

This presepe by Vincenzo is from Napoli. Musicians celebrate the holy birth and dazzling Neapolitan angels hover above the crib.

A glittering Polish scene (Szopka Krakowska) by artist Piotr Michalczyk.

A very special Nativity scene is this beautiful homage to Giorgione in the 500th anniversary of his death. It's a moving recreation of his Adoration of the Magi (in the National Gallery, London), a work by artist Alfonso Pozzobon from the Castelfranco area.

A different Christmas display is in the window of the Hotel Montecarlo (Calle dei Spechieri, San Marco 463). It has a typical winter village scene, American style, with flying Santas, a Santa in a swinging hammock (in the snow!), ice-skaters, ski lifts, scintillating stars and music. You can easily spend a whole evening discovering its hidden treasures. Next to it there is a traditional Italian presepe set in a cityscape that could well be Venice. Unfortunately it was not on display in 2011.

In most churches in Italy the presepe is not on display until Christmas eve. And in those where it is visible to the public before Christmas, Baby Jesus is placed in his crib on December 24th, like in this one in San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti in Castello.

An exception is the presepe on the façade of the church of La Pietà on Riva degli Schiavoni. Even the Wise Men pay tribute before Christmas.

If you are looking for a fresh Christmas tree in Venice it is likely that you would find it around the Strada Nova, either by Rio de San Felice or by Campo de la Madalena. I've also seen them in a flower shop in Campo San Cassan.

Santa may be an American recreation of Saint Nicholas but he is popular in Venice too. You can say hello to him in a vaporetto fermata, at the Rialto, or while rowing near the Grand Canal.

Both Hanukkah and Christmas are celebrated in the Ghetto, from the giant menorah in the middle of the campo to the decorations in many of the shops.

One of the most cherished of all Christmas traditions in Venice is the Concerto di Natale, usually held at the Basilica, although in 2011 it will be performed at Teatro La Fenice.  It is a "by-invitation-only" event that just well-connected Venetians and visitors can attend. If you don't belong that group, I recommend you attend the next good thing, a high mass at the Basilica the Sunday before Christmas. You never know who may be performing. A couple of years ago the Oxford College Choir sang a number of beautiful Christmas themes. Even if no special performance is scheduled, just hearing mass under the golden light of San Marco is a moving and unforgettable experience.

The days leading to Christmas is one of the best times to visit Venice. There is a Christmas concert almost in every church, there is mostarda veneta at Drogheria Mascari, the Mercatino dell' Antiquariato is open at Campo San Maurizio, beautiful Nativity scenes can be found all over town, and as an added bonus you will have the city all to yourself, and the Venetians will be more welcoming than ever. But above all, you'll be connecting with the true essence of Christmas, an intimate and private adventure set forth in peace and good will.