5 & 6. Calle del
Paradiso
Calle del Paradiso is one of the most enchanting corners of Venice. The
overhanging eaves with protruding wood beams (barbacani), the small shops opening
onto the narrow street will transport you to a medieval town. The arch,
the
bridge, the light at the end of the street will bring you back to
Venice. On
the side of the arch facing the street, the Madonna protects two
worshipers, a nobleman and a woman. The
coats of arms on the sides of the Madonna belong to the Foscari (a
lion) and Mocenigo families (two flowers). On the side facing the
bridge, the Madonna protects one worshiper, a friar. Only the coat of
arms of the Foscari family is displayed on this side, twice, one on
each side of Mary. The origin and date of this arch are controversial.
Some historians believe that the Foscari family commissioned the arch
to celebrate the marriage of Pellegrina Foscari and Alvise Mocenigo
which took place in 1491. This would date the arch as late XV century.
However, the arch is clearly Gothic and more in the style of the XIV or
early XV century. In addition, the coat of arm of the Foscari family is
next to the man and that of the Mocenigo family next to the woman,
contradicting the notion that the woman represents a Foscari and the
man a Mocenigo. According to the records, the two houses next to the
bridge were rebuilt by the abbot of the church of Santa Maria della
Pomposa (near Ravenna) and in 1407 passed to the Foscari and Mocenigo
families. The
arch would commemorate this event. The image of the friar on the side
of the canal seems to confirm this
idea. This would date the arch as early XV century. To add just one
more sliver of confusion, a plaque near the arch reads: "Arte Gotica,
s.
XIV"
How to get there. On the San
Marco side of the Rialto Bridge go down the stairs and continue onto
Salizada Pio X to Campo San Bartolomeo where you will see the smiling
statue of Carlo Goldoni, Venice's favorite playwright. Just past the
statue, make a right turn under the Sottoportico de la Bissa which
becomes Calle de la Bissa which twists to the left and then to the
right. Continue on this calle and cross Ponte San Antonio. If you stop
at Ponte San Antonio you will see to your right on the east side of the
canal (Rio de la Fava) the beautiful facade of Palazzo Gussoni,
attributed to the Lombardo family of architects. Continue onto Salizada
San Lio (on the side of the church of San Lio). Some of the oldest
houses in Venice are found here at the intersection with Calle delle
Vele. They date from the XIII century. Continue on the Salizada; after
Calle delle Vele, the fourth intersection on the left is Calle del
Paradiso. Make a left turn. The arch is at the end of the calle.
